It’s been about 5-6 weeks since we finished and I’ve been thinking about the journey. A lot of people have asked, “What was the most memorable part of the trail?” That’s easy. The people we met were absolutely amazing. This hike has restored my faith in humanity. There are so many good people out there, both on and off the trail, who touched my heart and I’ll never forget them. Examples are: the great friends made along the trail, the amazing rides when we hitchhiked (people turning around to pick us up and drive us 10 miles out of their way), the trail angel’s free food, anonymous benefactors paying for our meals while we ate in diners, the elderly southern gentleman who came up to us in a diner in Tennessee, introduced himself and very warmly welcomed us to his town. These people all made the trip magical. Of course, the scenery was breathtaking, but you can see most of that on a day-hike, and I highly recommend that if you can’t make the time for a thru hike. However, a day-hike won’t expose you to this kindness. The kindness flows to the thru hikers and they get submerged in it. It’s called magic and I scoffed when I first read about it, but now I believe.
Tuesday, October 22, 2013
Monday, September 16, 2013
Finally Done!
September 14
Steve and Sam came to meet us late Friday evening and we all stayed at an inn near Baxter State Park. Sooo good to see them again. They picked us up at the Katahdin Stream Parking lot (where we would return Saturday morning early to summit Katahdin together). The AT actually goes through this parking lot.
We woke early so that we'd be starting our ascent by 7:00 am. Katahdin is perhaps the most challenging mountain on the trail. It's "only" five miles from the parking lot to the summit, but you climb about 4000 feet and a lot of that is very difficult rock climbing. It took us seven and a half hours to go up and about the same down. Ouch! I am so impressed by Steve and Sam. They never complained and went right to the top with us:
We saw many day hikers turning back during the climb without making it all the way up. It was much more difficult than Mount Washington in New Hampshire.
Approaching the top, it was very wet and windy. Here we are on the relatively level last mile of the Tablelands, just yards from the summit:
And then, Done:
Sun and blue sky above us for just a moment. It was glorious.
Location: KATAHDIN!!!!
Very, very happy and tired Nory and Doc leaning on the Katahdin sign at the summit.
Steve and Sam came to meet us late Friday evening and we all stayed at an inn near Baxter State Park. Sooo good to see them again. They picked us up at the Katahdin Stream Parking lot (where we would return Saturday morning early to summit Katahdin together). The AT actually goes through this parking lot.
We woke early so that we'd be starting our ascent by 7:00 am. Katahdin is perhaps the most challenging mountain on the trail. It's "only" five miles from the parking lot to the summit, but you climb about 4000 feet and a lot of that is very difficult rock climbing. It took us seven and a half hours to go up and about the same down. Ouch! I am so impressed by Steve and Sam. They never complained and went right to the top with us:
We saw many day hikers turning back during the climb without making it all the way up. It was much more difficult than Mount Washington in New Hampshire.
Approaching the top, it was very wet and windy. Here we are on the relatively level last mile of the Tablelands, just yards from the summit:
And then, Done:
Sun and blue sky above us for just a moment. It was glorious.
Location: KATAHDIN!!!!
Very, very happy and tired Nory and Doc leaning on the Katahdin sign at the summit.
Sunday, September 15, 2013
Almost to the Tablelands
September 14
Afterwards, I'm kicking myself for not taking photos of the rock climbing ascent of Katahdin. We were all so focused on just getting up there (and back down before nightfall) that it never occurred to me. After climbing for just over 5 hours and the rocks ahead seeming to only keep going up into the mist, we decided to check where we were using a GPS enabled iPhone app.
The red line showed us our position and that we were almost up to the much easier Tablelands and that we had climbed 3000 of the 4000 feet. It still took us just over 2 hours to complete the ascent from there.
Afterwards, I'm kicking myself for not taking photos of the rock climbing ascent of Katahdin. We were all so focused on just getting up there (and back down before nightfall) that it never occurred to me. After climbing for just over 5 hours and the rocks ahead seeming to only keep going up into the mist, we decided to check where we were using a GPS enabled iPhone app.
The red line showed us our position and that we were almost up to the much easier Tablelands and that we had climbed 3000 of the 4000 feet. It still took us just over 2 hours to complete the ascent from there.
Location:Mount Katahdin, ME
High Water Stream Fording
September 13
We forded quite a few streams in Maine. Most not deeper than your knees and easy to traverse. Not the bother you might think it is, it was a nice, refreshing break for overworked, tired feet. It felt so good to remove heavy hiking boots and heavy socks and walk in cold water for a minute or two. Putting the warm, dry socks and boots back on afterwards felt good too.
Last night it poured down heavy rain all night. It stopped by morning so we were enjoying our last day of hiking in great weather. Just two more streams to ford. They looked menacing. Fast moving, crotch-deep, angry sounding water. We made it across, but we both admitted to being a bit unsettled by the experience.
Afterwards, we saw this sign on the north side of the second ford directing people around the ford during high water. Oh well. We had the experience and in retrospect, loved it.
Our First Look at Katahdin
September 13
Steve and Sam picking us up tonight and we will all climb this beast tomorrow. It is an awesome mountain.
Steve and Sam picking us up tonight and we will all climb this beast tomorrow. It is an awesome mountain.
Leaving the Hundred Mile Wilderness
September 13
The sign on the northern end of the wilderness warning south bound hikers of the length of the hike and lack of supplies ahead.
Porcelain in the Forest
September 13
More beautiful fungi. The colors were so vibrant - bright white and deep brown and were glistening like porcelain in the wet forest.
More beautiful fungi. The colors were so vibrant - bright white and deep brown and were glistening like porcelain in the wet forest.
Maine Pine Forests
September 12
I love pine forests. The soft pine needle covered forest floor, the towering trees, that pine aroma and the quiet is so tranquil. In Maine, the pine forests we saw on the misty mountains were so wet that the forest floor was carpeted with green mosses and ferns. Beautiful.
I love pine forests. The soft pine needle covered forest floor, the towering trees, that pine aroma and the quiet is so tranquil. In Maine, the pine forests we saw on the misty mountains were so wet that the forest floor was carpeted with green mosses and ferns. Beautiful.
Aluminum Stairs on the AT
September 11
There were many, many places on the trail with stone staircases. We probably climbed thousands of steps on the trail. They were all put in by volunteer workers and must have taken zillions of hours of effort. We saw some crews building stairs on several stretches and it looked very, very difficult. Stones are heavy and all the work on the AT is done by hand. No lifting or digging machines to help. It's all levers and shovels and strong backs. The stairs are awesome - so appreciated.
It was quite a surprise to see this aluminum staircase next to a stream in the middle of nowhere.
There were many, many places on the trail with stone staircases. We probably climbed thousands of steps on the trail. They were all put in by volunteer workers and must have taken zillions of hours of effort. We saw some crews building stairs on several stretches and it looked very, very difficult. Stones are heavy and all the work on the AT is done by hand. No lifting or digging machines to help. It's all levers and shovels and strong backs. The stairs are awesome - so appreciated.
It was quite a surprise to see this aluminum staircase next to a stream in the middle of nowhere.
Moose Tracks
September 11
We saw so much wildlife on this trip and were hoping to see a moose. Everyone said we'd see one in Maine, but unfortunately tons of moose poo and lots of tracks in the mud on the trail is what we saw. Here's a track next to a large boot print.
We saw so much wildlife on this trip and were hoping to see a moose. Everyone said we'd see one in Maine, but unfortunately tons of moose poo and lots of tracks in the mud on the trail is what we saw. Here's a track next to a large boot print.
Beautiful Fungi
September 11
The variety of growing things in the forest is astounding. The colors are startling sometimes. I loved these trumpet shaped "mushrooms"? Don't know what they are really.
Maine Water
September 8
Entered the Hundred Mile Wilderness yesterday and it is very wet. Many beautiful lakes
And waterfalls
Entered the Hundred Mile Wilderness yesterday and it is very wet. Many beautiful lakes
And waterfalls
Saturday, September 7, 2013
Hundred Acre Wood
September 7
We are on the last leg of the hike. Only about 110 miles to go. This part is called the Hundred Mile Wilderness and has the following stern warning sign at its entrance.
10 days food supply? We will be at the end Friday night (six days) to meet Steve and Sam for our family climb up Katahdin Saturday morning.
We are on the last leg of the hike. Only about 110 miles to go. This part is called the Hundred Mile Wilderness and has the following stern warning sign at its entrance.
10 days food supply? We will be at the end Friday night (six days) to meet Steve and Sam for our family climb up Katahdin Saturday morning.
Friday, September 6, 2013
Fording Streams
September 6
You may remember my fascination with all types of bridges. In Maine it seems they aren't so inclined. Many streams must be forded which means a stop to remove our boots and a dip in the cold water.
Nory fording a stream in Maine
Balancing Act
September 5
Some beautifully balanced rocks on the trail in Maine.
The passage to the left is long and just wide enough to squeeze through but the trail goes on the right side.
Some beautifully balanced rocks on the trail in Maine.
The passage to the left is long and just wide enough to squeeze through but the trail goes on the right side.
Hiking Again
September 4
The trail is feeling more like a hiking trail again. We are walking more than climbing these days. The trail is relatively flat from here to Katahdin. The White mountains were staggeringly beautiful and easily the most impressive part of the trail, but it feels so good to walk along a forest path again with pine needles under my feet and occasional hills to walk up and down.
The trail is feeling more like a hiking trail again. We are walking more than climbing these days. The trail is relatively flat from here to Katahdin. The White mountains were staggeringly beautiful and easily the most impressive part of the trail, but it feels so good to walk along a forest path again with pine needles under my feet and occasional hills to walk up and down.
Wet M&Ms
September 4
We buy large bags of M&Ms and keep them in zip-lock bags for snacks. A few nights ago it rained so hard it wet our food that was hanging in the trees in allegedly waterproof bags. This is what Matthew's M&Ms looked like after the bag leaked and filled with a few ounces of rain and then soaked overnight.
Yum. He just used his spoon to eat them like M&M soup.
We buy large bags of M&Ms and keep them in zip-lock bags for snacks. A few nights ago it rained so hard it wet our food that was hanging in the trees in allegedly waterproof bags. This is what Matthew's M&Ms looked like after the bag leaked and filled with a few ounces of rain and then soaked overnight.
Yum. He just used his spoon to eat them like M&M soup.
Carnivorous Plants on the AT
September 3
Anyone who has known me long knows I was an avid grower of all types of plants in my youth. I had lights set up in my parents basement growing everything from African violets to cacti and almost everything in between. A particular interest of mine was carnivorous plants.
I was very surprised to see some huge pitcher plants in a bog on the trail in Maine. They were even in bloom. Just amazing. They are the purplish plants in this photo.
Anyone who has known me long knows I was an avid grower of all types of plants in my youth. I had lights set up in my parents basement growing everything from African violets to cacti and almost everything in between. A particular interest of mine was carnivorous plants.
I was very surprised to see some huge pitcher plants in a bog on the trail in Maine. They were even in bloom. Just amazing. They are the purplish plants in this photo.
Mount Avery
September 3
This is the top of Mt Avery, the last mountain we have to cross in awhile. The official 2000 mile sign is up here although Matthew's 2013 AWOL guidebook has the 2000 mile point about 10 miles back. They change parts of the trail every year so the total length changes as well as milestone markers.
I love walking in these alpine growth areas. The plants are otherworldly and looking down on clouds while standing on the ground is very cool.
This is the top of Mt Avery, the last mountain we have to cross in awhile. The official 2000 mile sign is up here although Matthew's 2013 AWOL guidebook has the 2000 mile point about 10 miles back. They change parts of the trail every year so the total length changes as well as milestone markers.
I love walking in these alpine growth areas. The plants are otherworldly and looking down on clouds while standing on the ground is very cool.
Location:45.14716, -70.28335
Longest Day On the Trail
September 2
Woke to howling winds and driving rain. We were both damp from the mist but not wet in our tents. We decided to wait it out as we have no town ahead to dry out for about four days.
A one person tent is a small space to stay in all day listening to the wind and rain. Here's the view:
Only 11 days left! We will have to pick up the pace to make up for lost miles today, but the terrain looks easier ahead.
Woke to howling winds and driving rain. We were both damp from the mist but not wet in our tents. We decided to wait it out as we have no town ahead to dry out for about four days.
A one person tent is a small space to stay in all day listening to the wind and rain. Here's the view:
Only 11 days left! We will have to pick up the pace to make up for lost miles today, but the terrain looks easier ahead.
Location:45.14716, -70.28335
Out of the Mountains
September 1
We passed the 2000 mile mark today and are leaving the Blue Mountains tomorrow. Here's the view from our campsite of the last big rock we have to climb over in the morning.
Only about 180 miles to go now and most of it is relatively flat (except for that last 5 miles up Mt Katahdin)
We passed the 2000 mile mark today and are leaving the Blue Mountains tomorrow. Here's the view from our campsite of the last big rock we have to climb over in the morning.
Only about 180 miles to go now and most of it is relatively flat (except for that last 5 miles up Mt Katahdin)
Wednesday, September 4, 2013
Slippery Planks
August 31
It's been raining off and on for several days and everything is slippery. These mossy planks over a swampy area were like walking on ice. Had to shuffle along slowly to keep from sliding off.
It's been raining off and on for several days and everything is slippery. These mossy planks over a swampy area were like walking on ice. Had to shuffle along slowly to keep from sliding off.
Sometimes it's just vertical
August 30
Climbing today and came upon another iron ladder. These are soooooooo welcome when the trail is like this (smooth rock) especially when it's wet and slippery.
Climbing today and came upon another iron ladder. These are soooooooo welcome when the trail is like this (smooth rock) especially when it's wet and slippery.
Camping in Moose Country?
August 27
We found a campsite nestled in pines. Then we noticed all the barricades set up around our tents. ??? They seem to be deliberately placed. We were wondering if they're there to keep the moose from wandering into the camp? Very strange.
We found a campsite nestled in pines. Then we noticed all the barricades set up around our tents. ??? They seem to be deliberately placed. We were wondering if they're there to keep the moose from wandering into the camp? Very strange.
Location:44.76679, -70.76859
Tuesday, August 27, 2013
This Trail is Extremely Tough
August 14
I loved the sign at the bottom of Beaver Brook Trail
Bottom sign:
THIS TRAIL IS
EXTREMELY TOUGH
IF YOU LACK EXPERIENCE
PLEASE USE ANOTHER
TRAIL. TAKE SPECIAL
CARE AT THE CASCADES TO
AVOID TRAGIC RESULTS
This was at the bottom of mount Moosilauke (on the north side after we had decended). Moosilauke was our first taste of alpine tree line crossing. Climb what seemed like straight up, leave trees behind and the wind was so fierce and cold at the top we couldn't stay there long.
On the very steep way down, luckily we found wooden blocks spiked into the rock face or it would have been impossible. The cascade right next to the trail was gorgeous and terrifying at the same time. One slip and you'd wash to the bottom.
I loved the sign at the bottom of Beaver Brook Trail
Bottom sign:
THIS TRAIL IS
EXTREMELY TOUGH
IF YOU LACK EXPERIENCE
PLEASE USE ANOTHER
TRAIL. TAKE SPECIAL
CARE AT THE CASCADES TO
AVOID TRAGIC RESULTS
This was at the bottom of mount Moosilauke (on the north side after we had decended). Moosilauke was our first taste of alpine tree line crossing. Climb what seemed like straight up, leave trees behind and the wind was so fierce and cold at the top we couldn't stay there long.
On the very steep way down, luckily we found wooden blocks spiked into the rock face or it would have been impossible. The cascade right next to the trail was gorgeous and terrifying at the same time. One slip and you'd wash to the bottom.
Location:Mt Moosilauke, NH
Typical AT Shelter
August 27
Stopped at Hall Mountain Lean-to for a quick break. Looks like a typical AT shelter. Three sides, a roof and a wooden floor.
Stopped at Hall Mountain Lean-to for a quick break. Looks like a typical AT shelter. Three sides, a roof and a wooden floor.
Location:44.70097, -70.82483
Big Noises in the Night
August 26
So it's about 8:15 PM and Matthew and I are in our tents near a lake. Our tents are about 15 ft apart at this site we picked in the woods. There's a very, very large something stumbling around in the woods a few yards from our tents. Sounds like someone riding a horse. It's probably a moose but it's too dark to see anything. Freaky. Hopefully it'll be back in the morning light.
So it's about 8:15 PM and Matthew and I are in our tents near a lake. Our tents are about 15 ft apart at this site we picked in the woods. There's a very, very large something stumbling around in the woods a few yards from our tents. Sounds like someone riding a horse. It's probably a moose but it's too dark to see anything. Freaky. Hopefully it'll be back in the morning light.
Location:44.67304, -70.84999
Andover Friendliness
August 26
Hitchhiking into a town sometimes sets the tone for the visit.
We were picked up by the first car that passed us although it took about 15 min for a car to pass on the deserted road into Andover. Heading back out of town, we were offered our first ride from pedestrians. A lovely couple walked by and started chatting with us. They said they'd go get their car and give us a ride out to the trail (about 8 miles). While they were gone an elderly couple in a car stopped to offer us a ride (we weren't even hitch hiking). We declined and thanked them telling them a ride was on its way.
Great town, great people.
Hitchhiking into a town sometimes sets the tone for the visit.
We were picked up by the first car that passed us although it took about 15 min for a car to pass on the deserted road into Andover. Heading back out of town, we were offered our first ride from pedestrians. A lovely couple walked by and started chatting with us. They said they'd go get their car and give us a ride out to the trail (about 8 miles). While they were gone an elderly couple in a car stopped to offer us a ride (we weren't even hitch hiking). We declined and thanked them telling them a ride was on its way.
Great town, great people.
Location:Andover, ME
Andover General Store and Diner
August 26
Great place. It was friendly, inexpensive, delicious food. Not the best for hiker food resupply, but we had shipped food ahead from a previous town and were in town to pick it up.
Such a change from the extreme prices of New Hampshire. Example: in NH pancakes were 3 for $8.75 and here it was 3 for $3.00.
Great place. It was friendly, inexpensive, delicious food. Not the best for hiker food resupply, but we had shipped food ahead from a previous town and were in town to pick it up.
Such a change from the extreme prices of New Hampshire. Example: in NH pancakes were 3 for $8.75 and here it was 3 for $3.00.
Location:Andover, ME
Baldpate Mountain
August 26
We camped about halfway up the mountain in the pines. Woke to mist all around us. Climbing to the peak was eerie in a mist that made it hard to see the next trail marker. It also made the rocks slippery and the climbers nervous.
The view up the trail:
And 180 degrees back down the trail:
That rock surface goes for many hundreds of yards at a little less than a 45 degree incline. Luckily it was rough enough for our boots to grip without slipping.
We camped about halfway up the mountain in the pines. Woke to mist all around us. Climbing to the peak was eerie in a mist that made it hard to see the next trail marker. It also made the rocks slippery and the climbers nervous.
The view up the trail:
And 180 degrees back down the trail:
That rock surface goes for many hundreds of yards at a little less than a 45 degree incline. Luckily it was rough enough for our boots to grip without slipping.
Rock Scramble
August 25
The Mahoosuc Notch trail goes along a notch between mountains that is filled with boulders. It's called the hardest part of the trail. No way. It was a blast. It took us over an hour and a half to go one mile over and under many boulders. There were several places where we had to take off our packs to squeeze through.
It was very challenging, but nowhere near as hard as climbing mountains. Great fun. The weather has been glorious ever since we got back to the trail in Vermont. Perfect sunny, cool days. This (and the Whites) would have been treacherous in the rain.
The Mahoosuc Notch trail goes along a notch between mountains that is filled with boulders. It's called the hardest part of the trail. No way. It was a blast. It took us over an hour and a half to go one mile over and under many boulders. There were several places where we had to take off our packs to squeeze through.
It was very challenging, but nowhere near as hard as climbing mountains. Great fun. The weather has been glorious ever since we got back to the trail in Vermont. Perfect sunny, cool days. This (and the Whites) would have been treacherous in the rain.
Location:Mahoosuc Notch, ME
Looks like chicken...
August 24
Came across some birds on the trail today that looked like chickens. I'm not sure what they are. But they were not in the least concerned about us. We could walk right up to them.
Came across some birds on the trail today that looked like chickens. I'm not sure what they are. But they were not in the least concerned about us. We could walk right up to them.
New Hampshire - Maine border
August 24
We are in the last state on the trail. 1900 down, 280 miles to go.
And a view of the upcoming Maine mountains.
The whites in NH were staggering. The Maine mountains are less so, but still respectable. No easy going yet. There is a section near the end called "The Hundred Mile Wilderness". It's daunting in its isolation - we will have to carry 100 miles worth of supplies, but it appears flat on the map and should be a stroll compared to the last bits. We are really looking forward to being able to walk more than 10-12 miles a day again.
Someone said something about getting to the Whites and having only 20% of the miles left to go but 80% of the effort. It's true.
We are in the last state on the trail. 1900 down, 280 miles to go.
And a view of the upcoming Maine mountains.
The whites in NH were staggering. The Maine mountains are less so, but still respectable. No easy going yet. There is a section near the end called "The Hundred Mile Wilderness". It's daunting in its isolation - we will have to carry 100 miles worth of supplies, but it appears flat on the map and should be a stroll compared to the last bits. We are really looking forward to being able to walk more than 10-12 miles a day again.
Someone said something about getting to the Whites and having only 20% of the miles left to go but 80% of the effort. It's true.
Tree Cauliflower
August 24
Found this huge white growth on a tree. It's the size of a cauliflower but soft and spongy.
Found this huge white growth on a tree. It's the size of a cauliflower but soft and spongy.
Mountain Lakes
August 23
Finding beautiful lakes near the tops of mountains always surprises me.
No matter how many I see, I'm still amazed. I guess I'm surprised the mountains don't leak the water somewhere.
Finding beautiful lakes near the tops of mountains always surprises me.
No matter how many I see, I'm still amazed. I guess I'm surprised the mountains don't leak the water somewhere.
Big crack exploring
August 21
Sometimes the mountain splits open and leaves these giant cracks that I was able to easily walk into like a cave. It was about three feet wide and 15-20 feet long and I walked back and was able to turn the corner and go a bit further.
Sometimes the mountain splits open and leaves these giant cracks that I was able to easily walk into like a cave. It was about three feet wide and 15-20 feet long and I walked back and was able to turn the corner and go a bit further.
Fossils
August 20
Not sure what this was millions of years ago when this was all under water, but this rock we walked over was huge (30 feet across) and covered in this bumpy surface of some bizarre fossils
Not sure what this was millions of years ago when this was all under water, but this rock we walked over was huge (30 feet across) and covered in this bumpy surface of some bizarre fossils
Presidential Range
August 19
The descent from Mt Washington took us along the ridge line of some of the presidential range. It was all above tree line
and some very rocky terrain. We walked for many miles on nothing but rock. Perhaps one of the hardest days on the trail, but by far the most beautiful. This is a part I would do again; it is so breathtaking.
The descent from Mt Washington took us along the ridge line of some of the presidential range. It was all above tree line
and some very rocky terrain. We walked for many miles on nothing but rock. Perhaps one of the hardest days on the trail, but by far the most beautiful. This is a part I would do again; it is so breathtaking.
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