This Trail is Extremely Tough

August 14

I loved the sign at the bottom of Beaver Brook Trail



Bottom sign:
THIS TRAIL IS
EXTREMELY TOUGH
IF YOU LACK EXPERIENCE
PLEASE USE ANOTHER
TRAIL.  TAKE SPECIAL
CARE AT THE CASCADES TO
AVOID TRAGIC RESULTS

This was at the bottom of mount Moosilauke (on the north side after we had decended). Moosilauke was our first taste of alpine tree line crossing. Climb what seemed like straight up, leave trees behind and the wind was so fierce and cold at the top we couldn't stay there long.
On the very steep way down, luckily we found wooden blocks spiked into the rock face or it would have been impossible. The cascade right next to the trail was gorgeous and terrifying at the same time. One slip and you'd wash to the bottom.

Location:Mt Moosilauke, NH

Typical AT Shelter

August 27
Stopped at Hall Mountain Lean-to for a quick break. Looks like a typical AT shelter. Three sides, a roof and a wooden floor.

Location:44.70097, -70.82483

Big Noises in the Night

August 26

So it's about 8:15 PM and Matthew and I are in our tents near a lake. Our tents are about 15 ft apart at this site we picked in the woods. There's a very, very large something stumbling around in the woods a few yards from our tents. Sounds like someone riding a horse. It's probably a moose but it's too dark to see anything. Freaky. Hopefully it'll be back in the morning light.

Location:44.67304, -70.84999

Andover Friendliness

August 26

Hitchhiking into a town sometimes sets the tone for the visit.
We were picked up by the first car that passed us although it took about 15 min for a car to pass on the deserted road into Andover. Heading back out of town, we were offered our first ride from pedestrians. A lovely couple walked by and started chatting with us. They said they'd go get their car and give us a ride out to the trail (about 8 miles). While they were gone an elderly couple in a car stopped to offer us a ride (we weren't even hitch hiking). We declined and thanked them telling them a ride was on its way.

Great town, great people.

Location:Andover, ME

Andover General Store and Diner

August 26
Great place. It was friendly, inexpensive, delicious food. Not the best for hiker food resupply, but we had shipped food ahead from a previous town and were in town to pick it up.
Such a change from the extreme prices of New Hampshire. Example: in NH pancakes were 3 for $8.75 and here it was 3 for $3.00.

Location:Andover, ME

Baldpate Mountain

August 26
We camped about halfway up the mountain in the pines. Woke to mist all around us. Climbing to the peak was eerie in a mist that made it hard to see the next trail marker. It also made the rocks slippery and the climbers nervous.
The view up the trail:


And 180 degrees back down the trail:


That rock surface goes for many hundreds of yards at a little less than a 45 degree incline. Luckily it was rough enough for our boots to grip without slipping.

Rock Scramble

August 25
The Mahoosuc Notch trail goes along a notch between mountains that is filled with boulders. It's called the hardest part of the trail. No way. It was a blast. It took us over an hour and a half to go one mile over and under many boulders. There were several places where we had to take off our packs to squeeze through.
It was very challenging, but nowhere near as hard as climbing mountains. Great fun. The weather has been glorious ever since we got back to the trail in Vermont. Perfect sunny, cool days. This (and the Whites) would have been treacherous in the rain.

Location:Mahoosuc Notch, ME

Looks like chicken...

August 24
Came across some birds on the trail today that looked like chickens. I'm not sure what they are. But they were not in the least concerned about us. We could walk right up to them.

New Hampshire - Maine border

August 24

We are in the last state on the trail. 1900 down, 280 miles to go.



And a view of the upcoming Maine mountains.


The whites in NH were staggering. The Maine mountains are less so, but still respectable. No easy going yet. There is a section near the end called "The Hundred Mile Wilderness". It's daunting in its isolation - we will have to carry 100 miles worth of supplies, but it appears flat on the map and should be a stroll compared to the last bits. We are really looking forward to being able to walk more than 10-12 miles a day again.

Someone said something about getting to the Whites and having only 20% of the miles left to go but 80% of the effort. It's true.

Tree Cauliflower

August 24

Found this huge white growth on a tree. It's the size of a cauliflower but soft and spongy.

Mountain Lakes

August 23

Finding beautiful lakes near the tops of mountains always surprises me.



No matter how many I see, I'm still amazed. I guess I'm surprised the mountains don't leak the water somewhere.

Big crack exploring

August 21

Sometimes the mountain splits open and leaves these giant cracks that I was able to easily walk into like a cave. It was about three feet wide and 15-20 feet long and I walked back and was able to turn the corner and go a bit further.

Fossils

August 20

Not sure what this was millions of years ago when this was all under water, but this rock we walked over was huge (30 feet across) and covered in this bumpy surface of some bizarre fossils

Presidential Range

August 19
The descent from Mt Washington took us along the ridge line of some of the presidential range. It was all above tree line



and some very rocky terrain. We walked for many miles on nothing but rock. Perhaps one of the hardest days on the trail, but by far the most beautiful. This is a part I would do again; it is so breathtaking.

Mount Washington

August 19

Mount Washington is a windy place. The highest ground wind speed ever on earth was recorded there. The day we climbed it was mild in comparison. Only about 50-60 mph winds. Here's Matthew on our approach. Note his long sweatpants in August flapping in the breeze. Also the ground level cloud blowing over the trail. Wish I had thought to video they so you could see the wind. The mountain in the distance with the antennas on top is Washington. We have to go over a few smaller ones to get there - we are above tree line here.


Note the very serious sign at the base of the trail up Washington. This is not a joke.


And then on the descent we saw the cog train go by taking the sensible people to the summit.


We did have lunch in the cafe on top with everyone who drove and took the train to the top. Many people asked us,"Did you really walk up here?"

Location:Mount Washington, NH

The Scale of These Mountains

August 17

Look at the tiny green bits in the distance on the mountain. Those are tall trees, mostly hemlock and fir trees. Imagine walking up that hill (it's miles long) several times a day. I would never have thought I could do it and we do it over and over and over.


The rocks in the foreground are the tops of the mountains that are above tree line.

Location:White Mountains

More of the White Mountains

August 17

The mountains are steep and the views jaw dropping. I wish these photos could show what it really looks like.  Yes, we really do have to walk across what you see in these photos.











There are WAY more rocks than in Pennsylvania; not sure why everyone whines about the rocks in PA.

Getting into the mountains

August 16

The White mountains are impressive. They make the rolling hills we climbed over in the south seem tame.











We are ending our days feeling totally exhausted again. I was feeling pretty strong before, but I am humbled by these mountains. Our daily mileage has been cut almost in half and it feels like we've walked twice as far.

Crossing into New Hampshire

August 11

After our weekend off the trail, Steve drove us back to West Hartford, VT and we got back to walking. This part of the trail was the longest road walk we've had. It was several miles of walking on roads through towns including Hanover, NH, the home of Dartmouth College - a beautiful Ivy League college. Here's Matthew on the bridge into New Hampshire.

Surprising Sam

August 7-11

Steve picked us up in West Hartford, VT and we all went to Sam's summer camp in Maine to pick her up. She was not expecting to see Matthew and me until September when we finish. We all drove back to Concord, MA for a lovely long weekend off the trail with family.

Pines

August 7

The trail through a very tall forest of majestic pines.

Maple Syrup

August 6

Several times we've seen huge trees tied together with tubing extended between them hundreds of feet running down hill. Matthew figured it out: Maple sap lines. They were not tapped into the trees. Guess that's only in the spring.

Still alive

August 21

My apologies for disappearing. Lots of draft posts waiting for a good 4G signal from AT&T.

We are in the White Mountains in New Hampshire. We crossed Mount Washington and walked along the presidential range a couple of days ago. It is easily the most stunning (and difficult!) part of the trail so far. Lots of photos coming.

Location:Beans Purchase,United States

Vermont is SO Green

August 4

The forest floor is the most beautiful mix of greens I've ever seen.

500 Miles to go

August 4

Walked by a small sign today urging us onward.

The Trail Through Shrewsbury

August 3

Surprised to see that we walked through Shrewsbury today.

Cairn Garden

August 3

All along the trail there are small piles of stones that hikers add to as they walk by. In Vermont, we came upon an amazing garden of cairns in the middle of a pine forest. It is so serene, the quiet of a pine forest combined with the art of the stones. One of the highlights of the trail for me.




And a fellow hiker, Kokopelli who stands here before his just added stone peace sign.

Vermont Stream

August 2

The water is excellent again. Lots of springs with cold clear water and most of the streams are clear too.

Boardwalk in Vermont

August 2

Vermont is very wet. Long stretches of the trail are wet underneath with planks set up to walk on. Sure beats sinking in the bog. That was a lot of work carrying all that lumber out to the middle of nowhere.

Giant Burl

August 2

I'm not sure what causes these but I understand that they often contain beautifully patterned grain from the swirly uneven growth of the wood. Here's a giant example on the trail. That's Matthew (6'3" tall) looking up at it. It wraps around the other side completely and would probably make a fantastic table. The tree is still alive and growing; that branch sticking out at 90 deg is healthy.

Skiing the AT

August 1

We stopped in Manchester Center, VT today for a meal and supplies. A beautiful town. Unfortunately rainy day, but we dodged the worst of it in a pizzeria. Going north on the AT took us over Mt Bromley and a part of the trail was right up a ski slope. It was very misty at the top and the silent lifts were eerie in the fog.

Location:Mt Bromley, VT

On this day...

many years ago the most kind, loving, generous, beautiful person in the world married me in our garden in Chester Springs, Pennsylvania. I am the luckiest guy in the world. From her gentle example I have learned much and she is still helping me learn things about myself and change in very positive ways.
Stephanie, Thank You, you are amazing in so many, many ways.

I love you.

Location:1340 Conestoga Road, Chester Springs, PA